Ripping the Grass for Bass

By Chuck Bailey

Nothing provokes the average bass angler to put away their crankbaits faster than constantly snagging submerged weeds or grass. Whether it is hydrilla, elodea, coontail moss, milfoil or any of the other aquatic plants that grow in the shallows, there is nothing more frustrating than retrieving cranks to find it coated in green salad. A poorly cast crankbait can even bog down in a heavy mass of weeds or grass to the point that you have to go in and get it.

So it surprises some weekend anglers to discover that many accomplished professional fishermen actually seek to make contact with weeds – INTENTIONALLY!

And no one knows more about this unique technique called “ripping” than FLW and B.A.S.S. tournament pro Bernie Schultz. Raised in Florida, this shallow water expert has successfully used ripping to further his career and put countless bass in the boat.

Ripping Defined

What exactly is ripping? Bernie explains, “Essentially, what you are trying to do with a crankbait is give it a quick pulse of speed to provoke a fish into a reaction strike. The technique works best on bass that aren’t really in a feeding mode; inactive or even lethargic fish.”

Though ripping can work on drop offs, or on lake bottoms that have very little cover on them, (repeatedly ripping it off the bottom and letting it fall), no other environment is better suited than submerged vegetation.

If your favorite lake has weeds or grass of any kind, it is a candidate for this unique technique. “Anything you can get a bait over the top of, or through, is preferred – regardless of the species of grass.”

Just a Spring Time Technique?

Those anglers vaguely familiar with ripping may have heard that ripping is basically a springtime technique, effective only until the grass reaches the surface. But Bernie says, “That’s kind of a misnomer. Yes, spring is ideal for ripping – fish will sit on top of grass, or up in the water column where they are in the highest part of the grass – in pre-spawn especially. But if you are talking about hydrilla, elodea, coontail moss, or milfoil, that stuff has a growing edge to it throughout the year.”

Seeking the ‘Stranding’ Grass

“And the edge is sometimes where you need to focus. Even though there might be large areas of matted grass, the new edges will be submerged, and ‘stranding’, and that’s what you want to work is the stranding grass.”

Stranding grass is the always growing up at the edge of the fields, and while it is growing towards the surface, it is still not too thick. Schultz elaborates, “Stranding grass is loose enough to work a bait through. It can be found year around – though its peak periods are in the spring.”

“Prespawn is when the technique seems to be best. And it is effective again at post-spawn, when the fish come off the beds and go out and suspend in the tall parts of the stranding grass.”

A Good Spot
When Bernie stops the boat and says “This looks like a good spot for ripping”, anglers would be wise to pay attention to his reasons for picking that location.

“I am going to use my depth finder, and I am going to look in areas that are shallower than 10 feet. That’s generally speaking, because I have made this technique work in 18 feet of water. But what would be the ideal is where grass has grown halfway to the surface in 10 feet of water.”

Deeper Water?

That does not mean that the technique will not work in deeper water. Many clear water lakes and reservoirs may have grass beds whose edges don’t stop until the depth is 18-20 feet. Our Florida pro insists it can be done with any weed bed, “…as long as you are not throwing in matted grass or grass that is too thick to literally rip the bait through, it could be very effective.”
In deeper water, Bernie does point out, “The type of crankbait you use might change. Instead of using a lipless bait that we most often use in the southeast, you would perhaps use a deeper diving crankbait.”

The Ideal Scenario

“The most important thing,” insists Schultz, “is to have the right density of grass; stranding is the key. If the grass is stranding, it doesn’t matter what depth it is. Even so, the best scenario I can think of is a lipless crankbait fished in 6 to 8 feet of water with grass growing halfway to the surface.”

If an angler attempting to rip crankbaits through the weeds is coming back with grass snagged all over their lure, Bernie says “The bait may be running too deep or the weeds are too thick. In that case, you need to move or change lures to reduce the running depth.”

The Lipless Crankbait

But when an angler finds themselves fishing the ideal scenario for ripping crankbaits, (again, when the grass top is growing half way to the surface in 6 to 8 feet of water), lure choice is easy. “In that situation you are most often going to use a lipless crankbait. The lipless crankbait I like a lot, is the Rapala ‘Clack’n Rap’.”

The Billed Crankbait

“But there are times when I also like billed crankbaits that run at the depth designated to the top of the grass – like a Rapala DT 4 or a DT 6, (or whatever model runs at the depth the grass is at). I try to pick a crankbait that will dive just below the top of the grass so I can make contact and rip the bait through the grass.”

Triggering a Reaction Bite

Ripping is a technique that exploits the instinctive ‘predator’ characteristic of bass. As long as the fish are in the right places in the weeds, there is a good chance they can be triggered into a reaction strike regardless of their activity level.

Bernie unpacked some of the reasons ripping is effective, “Well, the fish are positioned just right. Naturally their position can be relative to the day, the season, or the type of grass they are in. (There’s no way to pin that down). But I can tell you that working a bait over the bass’ head, even if they are bedding in loose grass on the bottom, will trigger a reaction bite by ripping it through the grass.”

Contact!

“The response is similar to what happens when ‘bumping the stump’ with a crankbait. Usually when an angler bumps the stump, the bait will hang and then it pops free with an initial burst of speed; that’s when the bass nail it.”

“Likewise, when you are ripping the bait through the grass, you make contact with the grass, the bait gets balled up for just a second, and you snatch it free – that’s when you are going to get bit.”

Water Clarity

The reaction bite that occurs is primarily triggered by visual stimuli, so water clarity is a big factor in its success. Bernie explains, “The water clarity can be clear to off-color, but it can’t be real dirty.”

Naturally, fish in clear water can see for quite a distance, so “In clearer water you want to keep some distance between you and the fish, especially if you are fishing shallow. You must make a long cast, and you are going to need some specialized equipment to make that happen.”

Noodle Rods Need Not Apply

Ripping is not a technique that will work if a rod is too limber – leave your flimsy noodle rods at home. “You are going to need at least a medium-heavy action rod. In extreme situations you want a heavy action rod. But generally the medium-heavy will give you the backbone you need to ‘snatch’ the bait out of the grass.”

“A slower rod, or a softer tip rod will simply result in the grass balling up on the bait. And you really don’t want that.”

In terms of rod length, “I’d recommend a 6’10” to 7 1⁄2 foot graphite baitcasting rod,” says Bernie. “The length is largely going to depend on the size of the baits that you are trying to throw, and the distances you are trying to reach.”

High Speed Reel…

When throwing lipless crankbaits, speed is important. Bernie says, “I like a high-speed gear ratio reel – at least 6:1, though I have gone as high as a 7:1. I use Shimano’s Calais.”

…Non-Stretch Line

To ‘snatch’ a lipless crankbait free from stranding grass, requires a line with little stretch. Mono would react too much like a rubber band and frustrate the angler’s ability to tear the crankbait free.

Fluorocarbon and braid are Schultz’s lines of choice. “I almost always use fluorocarbon with a diving lipped crankbait, but I will use both fluorocarbon and braid with the lipless bait.”

Fluorocarbon

“Generally,” explains Bernie, “I am always going to try and use fluorocarbon, especially in clear water situations. I only go to the braid when the water is off colored or the grass is so thick that it is essential I have something with zero stretch.”

“On a long cast, (and in Florida we make long casts because the fish are so sensitive to boat pressure, and the water is so clear), I use Sufix 100% Fluorocarbon – no less than 17 lb test, and no more than 20 lb test. Unless you are throwing a big bait, (in which I might go up a little more), 20 lb test will cover it.”

Braid

When the water is off colored, Bernie will throw lipless crankbaits on Sufix Braid. As to which pound test is used, “That depends on the size of the bait and the kind of cover, but usually 20-40 lb test works well.”

Why so high? “Just to help snatch the bait,” says Bernie. “And after all, the diameter of 20 lb braid is not that thick.”

Deep in the Mouth…

An angler who begins to experience the rewards of ripping will eventually begin to notice that the bass are rarely skin hooked or hanging on by a thread. “With this technique,” explains Bernie, “the fish usually get the bait down deep. It really doesn’t sound like they would, but believe me, when you snatch a bait free over grass and a fish bites it, it’s usually in the back of his throat. The tendency is not to lose these fish.”

…with a Little Extra Help

Even so, that doesn’t stop our tournament pro from increasing the hook setting odds in his favor. “There are times when I might upgrade the hooks one size, or one gauge in diameter, (so at least they are a thicker or stronger hook). I don’t upgrade to the point that I might retard the action of the lure. At most I may upsize the hooks one size. And I usually do that on at least one of the two hooks. Needless to say, you don’t lose many fish.”

Bernie adds, “But I don’t go up in hook size to increase contact with the weeds, I go up in size to increase hook percentage. As long as you have a medium-heavy rod and a line with zero stretch, you are in control, not the weeds.”

Which Knot?

Whether Bernie is throwing a lipless or billed crankbait, he ties directly to the split-ring using a double improved clinch knot. “I like this knot because it bites the split-ring real tightly and it doesn’t move around. It’s the same knot I would use on a jig and a worm.”

Sound

Though Schultz readily admits that there are a variety of lipless crankbaits that will work for ripping, “In the 1⁄2 ounce range I like the smaller size “Clack’n Rap”, because it has a unique sound. It’s got a big single knocker in it, and none of the others do. It’s not packed with rattles, making it different. And big fish react to it. That’s why I like it.”

Color

Bernie believes in simplicity when it comes to selecting colors, and doesn’t believe that an angler must carry an endless variety in the boat. He lists his favorites as being “Chrome, gold, any shads or baitfish matching patterns, and red. There’s something about early spring – the bass like red a lot. And I have also made chartreuse work very well. These I have confidence in.”

Changing Color or Changing Water?

A common question many pro anglers get asked is “How long do you wait before changing out or fine tuning size or color?” When addressing the ripping technique, Bernie’s answer catches many off guard.

“If the lure that I am throwing is working through the cover the way I want it to (that is, if I’m not having too much problems getting it through the cover, and I am getting a nice crisp snatch of the lure whenever I perform the technique), I’m going to stick to that lure and cover water – more so than I am going to change lures.”

“I’ll usually start with chrome or gold. If it is early spring I’m going to have both a red and a chrome tied on. And if I am in a lake or a river where gold is a factor, (if they have golden shiners like they do in the south), then I’ll use gold.”

“Most of the time I’m using chrome and reds in the spring. That transitions into chrome, a baitfish matching color, or chartreuse later as the year progresses. But more important than changing colors, is changing water.”

“Ripping is a search tool, and you need to make it work for you. Put the trolling motor down and if it is windy, work with the wind. Fish and cast downwind. The less you disturb the grass bed the better. Especially if it is shallow.”

(Permission granted by the author/editor of Crankbait Central – CrankbaitCentral.com – a site dedicated solely to crankbaits.)
To Be Continued…..